Moonstruck: Thai Folklore and Traditions

Thailand: Moon, Sea and Legends by Chris Bonds

Sometimes, during the full moon, you can almost see inside the cave as the moonlight illuminates the haunting figures just a bit. Still, no one is brave enough to go in, not on a dare...not even for riches. All the locals will tell you that thousands, if not millions of bats live in the little piece of earthly hell. The bats are not the only thing dwelling in the cave; villagers are convinced that a female vampire, Langsir, has been living (so to speak) here for hundreds of years.

As legend has it, Langsir would lure hypnotized men into her lair and then suck all of the blood out of their pitiful bodies. She would then let out a blood curdling cry that would send the bats into frenzy.

Where is this...Transylvania? Well, you may be surprised to learn that this cavernous death-trap is located just a quick bat flight away in the neighbouring island of Pulau Dayang Bunting, just across the Thai border..

My childhood memories of stories told to me about the moon and stars and the strange tales of adventurers lost at sea, was unabashedly starry-eyed. The stories of the vampires and tragic werewolves had me spending many a night with the lights turned on. Luckily, these moon tales and folklores are just whimsical reminiscences of my youth.

In Thailand however, these myths and legends not only exist, but in many cases--they are revered. Countless stories have been handed down from generation to generation, some dismissed and yet some have managed to keep their mystical intrigue and have even taken their place in popular culture. There is no debate over the fact that full moons have long engrossed the imagination of man. Dating back to pagan days, the full moon has been seen as a time for healing rituals, magic and for celebrations of the "circle of life."

The moon and the stars have played a significant role in Thailand for centuries. The Mokens, the indigenous people who have frequented the islands and coastlines in the Andaman Sea for many generations, use the heavenly forces to guide them in virtually every aspect of their lives.

The Mokens or Andaman sea gypsies as they are now called-- had all but faded into obscurity as many of the new generation of Thai’s have withdrawn from the ancient beliefs and have embraced modernity and technology. The sea gypsies have steadfastly held on to their ancestral teaching and in recent years have been trust into the spotlight due to their understanding and calculation of the 2004 Tsunami.

Reportedly, the sea gypsies, who make their livelihood by catching fish with their bare hands, noticed a number of odd occurrences in the Andaman two weeks prior to the catastrophe. They claimed to have seen rare deep sea creatures along the reef area and large crabs unusually scampering about. The morning of the full moon day was the final sign for the gypsies as they watched seawater recoil grounding their boats. Wasting no time, the group ran towards the hill and remarkably, there was only one reported fatality.

The sea gypsies survived because of their close relationship with nature; the moon and their appreciation of the Andaman Sea—as their lives literally depend on their understanding and wisdom.

Besides predicting cataclysmic events, Thai’s veneration for the moon also plays a part in one of the most joyous of Thai celebrations, the Loy Krathong festival.

Loy Krathong is celebrated in Thailand during November on the day before the full moon of the 12th lunar month. The original purpose of the festival was to gain forgiveness from the water goddess for any pollution that may have occurred over the previous year. Thai people prepare small round boats or kratong made from the trunk of a banana tree and decorate it with flowers, candles and incense.

Thousands of these lovely little vessels are then sent out into the Andaman Sea, with thousands of tiny candles twinkling in the moonlight. Along with the full moon, the dramatic mountainous backdrop and the humble faces of the locals uttering prayers that the kratong will carry their sins away--- makes this festival a visual feast.

While a visit to Lipe Island in Thailand’s southern Andaman Sea may not be as festive as Loy Krathong, you at least get to share your accommodations with a spirit, ghost or some other strange incarnation. The Chao-le people (people of the sea) are not wavering in their belief that the island is filled with these supernatural beings. Just ask any local about the ghost and you will hear evidence of ghostly footprints being left in the sand during the full moon--and that's not the only thing they leave either. According to some locals, the Ha-too (ghost) frequently leave 'droppings' in the sand, especially when the moon is aglow.

Now for a few facts, the full moons are traditionally associated with insomnia and insanity; hence the terms lunatic, however, psychologists have found that there is no strong evidence for effects on human behaviour around the time of a full moon. Trying to sell this evidence to Thai people, you are almost guaranteed to come back with zero baht. To say that Thai’s are superstitious is an understatement. According to Thai folklore there’s definitely not a man on the moon—that would be much to silly, the moon is inhabited by a rabbit and its face is clearly visible in the northern hemisphere.

Are western countries any better? Absolutely not! In the West, we are raised with stories of werewolves and the power of the full Moon on romance and we buy into it…hook-line and sinker. Honestly, if a doctor, nurse or policemen tells us that the moon can alter human behaviour, we have to believe them. After all, they can’t all be wrong, can they? We’ve all heard the stories of the emergency room turning into a madhouse during the full moon. They seem to mysteriously forget that the emergency room was a madhouse at least a dozen times that month and yes, without a full moon. It’s a little crazy, but it is human nature.

The Chinese have a lovely fable that speaks of the man in the moon. As legend has it, the moon man is responsible for the destiny of lovers and unites them with an invisible, silken cord, which he ties around their waist. When their predestined time is at hand, he pulls the cords together causing the pair to meet and fall in love.

Whether it’s in the form of folklore, old-wives tales or ancient wisdom handed down throughout the generations, Thailand has a deep appreciated and respect for the moon, the sea and nature. And although some of these ‘moon legends’ are admittedly a bit hard to swallow, you have to admit they add to the charm of these warm and delightful people.